braking,

Spring Car Care

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TheReview Wednesday, Neel 25, 1990 = 88

Engine tune-up often is
included as part of seasonal
service. Here are answers to
some of the most common ques-
tions about this vital aspect of
preventive maintenance.

1. What is a tune-up? Technic-
ally, it is the service of restoring
the engine to the car manufact-
urer’s specifications, or as
close as possible. This usually
involves replacement and/or
adjustment, as needed, of parts
that affect the engine’s perfor-
mance.

2. Can I do it myself? If your en-
gine is a fairly simple one, if
you have the basic tools and
testers, if you have some
mechanical savvy and if you are
willing to do a bit of reading on
the subject (there are lots of
good books in the stores and in
your library), you should be
able to do it yourself.

3. And if I opt to get it done by a
professional? Seek out a well-
trained and equipped mechanic.
If your car needs a tune-up, the
return on investment in a pro-
fessional job can amount to as
much as two gallons of gas per
tankful.

4. How often should I get a tune-
up? For best performance and
economy, make tune-up an
annual habit or at least as
often as specified in the
owner’s manual.

Newer cars equipped with
electronic ignition have longer

service intervals which vary
from make to make. While these
engines have no _ distributor
points or condenser, there are
still spark plugs, wires, filters,
distributor cap and rotor which
may need periodic replacement.

If you’re driving an older
model car which has a conven-
tional ignition system with
points and a condenser, have the
engine checked at intervals of
6,000 miles and a tune-up every
10,000 - 15,000 miles. After that
mileage, these engines become
prone to misfiring under heavy
load or acceleration.

5. What parts would my mecha-
nic normally check or replace? It
depends on your car, how long it
has been since your last
tune-up and, of course, the
condition of the engine.

Here’s what you can expect
in a complete tune-up.

e Spark plugs. They should be
replaced in sets. If one is mis-
firing or in borderline condition,
they’re all likely to be in
similar shape.

© Distributor points, condenser,
rotor and possibly distributor
cap. If your car has electronic
ignition, points and condenser

won't be part of your tune-up.

e The PVC (positive crankcase
ventilation) valve. It’s part of the
emission system.

e The PVC filter. This is a little
filter, usually found inside the
air filter housing, that keeps dirt
from entering the crankcase.

e The air filter. Your engine
breathes air. But when this filter

Awareness

Continued from Page C1
Remember, the ability to
control your vehicle depends to a
great extent on the traction your
tires have on the road. So, in
addition to conditions listed
above, you should also drive
cautiously when travelling over
dirt, sand, mud or loose gravel.

The best way to avoid a skid
is to be aware of the road condi-
tions and drive accordingly.

e Slow down on slippery roads.
When braking, pump your
brakes gently to avoid locking
the wheels.

e Keep your tires properly
inflated. To avoid swerves on
front tire pressures
must be equal. And, for some
cars, the rear tires should have
higher pressure than the front
tires. Check the tire inflation
sticker on the door jamb or the

e Test traction on different road
surfaces and in bad weather by
occasional light braking.

e Don’t tailgate. Following
another vehicle too closely, par-
ticularly on a wet road, may not
give you adequate stopping
distance.

If you should go into a skid,
however, follow these tips:
e Don’t panic.
e Do NOT hit your brakes.
e Turn your steering wheel in
the same direction the rear of
the car is skidding.

Be careful not to overcorrect
during this procedure. You'll be
able to ‘‘feel’’ the car regain
rolling traction. Then straighten
the wheels. Once you've regain-
ed steering control of the vehi-
cle, pump the brakes to slow

becomes clogged with dirt, the
restriction can choke off the air
to a point where gas mileage and
performance are seriously af-
fected. This condition also adds
to exhaust emissions.

e The fuel filter. It’s an often-
overlooked part of the fuel sys-
tem that can bring your engine
to a halt when it gets filled with
contaminants from the gas tank.
e The ignition system. These
are the wires running from the
coil to the distributor and to the
spark plugs. This is especially
important on newer cars, where
high under-the-hood temperat-
ures due to emission controls
cause more rapid deterioration
of the wires.

e E.G.R. system. If your car is
equipped with an E.G.R.
(exhaust gas recirculation) sys-
tem, which is part of the emis-
sion-control system, it should be
checked and serviced as needed.
e Vacuum hoses. Leaking or
disconnected vacuum hoses can
cause rough idle, sluggish per-
formance and increased emis-
sion levels.

e Carburetor choke. A sticking
choke can cause hard starting
and contribute to poor fuel eco-
nomy.

je

SIDNEY’S LONGEST ESTA

6. What adjustments are made?
A good tune-up should include
cleaning and checking the batte-
ry and cables, starting and
charging systems.

Although other under-the-
hood checks such as hoses, belts
and fluids are not necessarily
included as part of a tune-up, it
is wise to request these services
plus, possibly, oil and filter
change and transmission service
while the car is in the shop.

DANSCOT

AUTOMOTIVE:

Ben Berenat

Be 4 '6
RINE: INDUSTRIAL
Complete Engine Rebuilding

Removal and Installation
Cylinder Head Rebuilding, Aluminum
and Cast Cyl. Heads
Check and Repair Diesel Injectors
Crack Testing
Repair of Cracks
Installation of Guide Seat Inseris
Surface Grinding
Installation of Cam Bearings

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