Be Food rots in Spain today but only Franco’s friends eat well red wine, “Try this,’ he said. When I took “Things are not what they seem, believe me.” _ Thus began my trip through Spain in a_ third-class Spanish border town of Port-Bou and Barcelona. tion, no room. The old, the young, Se ubiquitous civil guard piled themselves in like ‘na is'in agony,” whispered an old man on my left, so much baggage. There was silence except for short spas- modic outbreaks of talk. Then it Was as if the story that was telling itself in the faces of the peasants, in the belligerent un- rest of the soldiers, in the sor- rowful anger in the faces of the women, rose suddenly to the surface and erupted. _ An old woman, wearing the in- evitable black of mourning, peeled an orange carefully. “TI hear food is srpenaive, sae k said tentatively, “For those who have money— they can buy anything,” she answered, Faces turned towards They began to whisper among themselves. My question had released a unifying curios- ity, as well as hostility, among them. “What do these filthy tourists know about what happens to us?” said one, ‘ “We can’t last another year and they ask us if food‘is ex- pensive,” said another. — The old fellow offered me his bottle of wine again. He whisp- ered: “We weren't liberated. If - you look, you'll see what is : oe,” — ; The woman had finished . her _ orange. “We can’t buy olive oil,” she began, “in this country of olive trees, or oranges, even though _ FRIDAY, MAY 16, 1947 1 By ERNEST CAPP they eo ‘in the streets. I paid three pesetas for a kilo this morning, That is a day’s salary for most of us. Once a week I can buy them. We are all hungry, all‘the time. Try this bread.” a The bread was still damp. Cardboard could not have pro- duced the intensity of the cramps I felt an hour later. The black hats of the Civil - Guards against the windows obscured the view of the coun- tryside, but despite them I saw the hills rising slowly, the sun flattening on the olive trees, the curious appearance of softness that the land held. The old man fell asleep, his wine bottle held between his - knees. He began to snore. A ripple of laughter went through the people who sat near him. “Better to. sleep,” said a young girl. The old woman still holding the orange peels stretched out her old legs. “My feet,” she sighed, shaking her head, “I have to much.” She shook her head then turned toward me with sudden intensity. ; “Do you know,” she paeiec “that we must pay 12 pesetas a kilo for black market bread?” Again talk started. It was not loud. I never heard once any- * gee, walk so He held out a bottle of the wine he WEisprred again: train ruming between the There was no ventilation, no sanita- one speak loudly in Spain save for the soldiers. The civil guards Moved uneasily. Silence again. 1 co) EN I Barcelona, my train-mates nodded to me. The old woman put her hand on my shoulder. ‘Don’t be fooled by what these devils tell you. They’ll say to you we are a Seid people. But you'll see.” The next morning I barn to Barcelona revealed itself as a giant slum; its misery em- phasized by the unashamed wealth and newness of govern- ment buildings and churches. I walked through the market places—found myself confronted with mountains of black olives, pale citrus, every kind of vege-. table. Could there be a food shortage? When I looked in the ‘street I saw the denial of any doubts I had. A wretched, apa-. thetic army of beggars- scaveng- ed in the gutters for bits of gar- bage. ay An old woman leaning on a fruit stall. muttered at me: “Ty Suppose you think we _ should be fat with such reget Well, who can buy it, who can. pay 11 pesetas for 12, eggs? — _ Eleven pesetas is a day’s wage for a skilled worker.” 1 left the train at curried away from the stall by a breeze, mingling with the other smells of Barcelona's gutters, The food was rotting in the sunlight. There was no one who could buy it. @ / Qn the waterfront in the shadow of ships and giant derricks were dockers wearing the blue berets. Some were bare- foot. They were all pitifully thin. One came toward me. “You want to ride around the harbor? Very chedp for you,” he said mechanically. His words were rote. His apathy was deep- ly meaningful. I discovered he earned two pesetas a day. ‘How do you ee I asked. “I steal what food I can, or” and he pointed toward a nar- row beach whose shores were lumpy with garbage, “I do as the children do.” On, the beach, the sun-black- eued, swollen children rooted among the orange peels. A little boy, wearing .only a man’s rag- ged jacket, lifted his hand tri- umphantly. In it he held the oil-covered remains of. &@ fish. With hunger’s desperation, his friends began a flanking move- ment. He fled away from the- into — Barcelona’s worst slum district _ of Barriochino. beach and _ disappeared © _ “Traitor,” him, they “Coward!” 3 | FOLLOWED him, seeing at first only a hill of crumpled called after cardboard and wooden slats piled - crazily to form shelters. Clothe lines hung with dirty formed a connection betwe erty, garbage, urine, were intensified by, the strong sun and dust rose from. the un- paved streets. Underneath a strip of cant board held upright by [two — stakes, sat a family of four. A child lay on her back in the middle of the road. Near her cheek was a smashed orange. e She moved her legs feebly. Everywhere were old women moving silently and crablike, | poking in trash piles, looking for bread. of Watching a dog wrestle with ae a bone was a ragged man whose hands were flattened on 2 fe knees. His skin was green; 20 unbelievable burning green. “How long since you've eat en?’ : “I don’t know,” he said turn- . ing his face from me. ea “Can't you get work?” A sick rage was apparent in his eyes: » “Me? There’s no work for any of us. We fought for the Republic. Do you think hee will give us jobs?” ‘That question was answered throughout Spain in a way i which no denial is possible. The beggars were not professional nor were they only the inevit able counterpart of capitalist — society. In Spain, they are a major- ity of the people—the working class. Revolt against Bevin By FRANK PITCAIRN —LONDON. REIGN MINISTER Ernest Bevin and his advisers know well enough that if they main- tain their present attitude to the Anglo-Soviet Treaty they are due to encounter very tough opposi- tion indeed within the Labor Party. There are reports from ordin- arily good sources that several members of the cabinet are sharply critical of the line Bev- in has been taking on this issue. It would not be surprising. For, even on the most cynical calculation, it is going to be ‘to be very difficult to explain this line to the British people. We are offered a strengthen- ing of the alliance—and we turn it down on the fantastic ground that we want to be friends with the Soviet Union but at the “same time refuse to bind our- selves not to take part in an anti-Soviet bloc. : Bevin and his American men- tors spent ten aays in elabor- -ating a remarkable propaganda _ campaign designed to distort the meaning of the Soviet position. Leakages to newspapers, re- ports on the BBC, were care- fully built up in order to im- press upon the British mind one large-scale lie—that the Soviet Union is seeking to ‘detach’ us from the United ‘States, or to break down our friendship with that country, * When Pravda put the simple facts of the case it was clear to everyone that if these facts were allowed to speak for them- selves the vast: majority of labor people Would heartily accept the Soviet viewpoint. each ‘Official quarters’ immediately sought to drown the voice of the facts by letting off a scream _ of alarm and indignation. They said it was ‘unprecedent- ed’ that one ally should bind itself not to take part in direct or indirect action against an- other. - They made up, ‘for the benefit of the newspapers, a series of fantastic ‘hypothetical situations’ supposed to! indicate the ‘perils’ 7 I then noticed a TORE smell into which Na would be ’ drawn by accepting such condi- — tions. It became clear, however, that the simple sense of the Soviet viewpoint was not so easily ie: be shouted down. ke ‘Official circles’ began to take — a slightly different line. They said that of course they had never meant to declare that _ they were 100 percent oppose in principle to promising not to participate in anti-Soviet blocs: (For people were asking “If you do not have that intention, why are you so angry at being asked formally to renounce it?”) They declared that it was real ly all a question of ‘definition’— what exactly is a direct or ifr — direct action against an ally and so on. e Bet these evasions are not likely to prevent for very long a real’ showdown in the Labor Party and perhaps within the cabinet, on this great issue. Foreign observers — American and French—who claim to have been in touch with Sir Stafford Cripps recently, take it for grant- — ed that he is moving definitely into the position of a cabinet ‘rebel’ against Bevinism. I do not know whether they are right or merely drawing _ more or less logical conclusions — from Cripps’ general position Te garding economic policy. ; : What is certain is that the t appalling effects of Bevinist — foreign policy in terms of the drain on our dollar reserve — have at last become a central topic of more or less acrimoni- ous discussion both ‘on the high- est’ levels’ and among high de" partmental officials. The ‘reply’ to the onsale reply all too obviously an offi-— cial stereotype—is beginning to become monotonous. -. ¥ It is that we cannot change our foreign policy, and we must, at home, pursue the Conserva- — tive policy, represented by Dal- ton’s budget, because these are necessary — to “impress. ‘American ; ~ opinion. Ns os of u _ And the reason for this oe mination to impress Americ: opinion at all costs is that the — negotiations for a new loan havey, already begun: 3 1 hac ei le PACIFIC ‘TRIBUNE—PAGE 10