"the north, ‘Stand

a yer. and .
pert sends . whizzies:

i then you ain’t —
W ll _you see the Queen of
ince Rupert, White and green
and gleaming with a rakish bow
like'a clipper ship, she’s there at
Kelsey. Bay to take you into the .
back of beyond of north-central

Well, not quite. .

he Queen will take you to
nce. Rupert via. the Inside
sage. When you get to
upert; then you’re on your

“Highway. 16 towards Prince
orge.;; a,
irst, make reservations. The -
een; operated by the B.C.
ries,.is very popular, Who
-wouldn’t be? Through some of
the world’s finest’ coastal ~
‘scenery. Long _fiord-like
‘channels. and past towering
iountains, grey-green forested
lands, small settlements often
nly three or four houses and a.
harf, past gillnetters black-
ducking along the shore to miss
‘the big currents, broad-beamed.
eine ‘boats ‘trundling along
“escorted by. convoys of
voracious seagulls, and eagies
paring or lording it over all
rom talipines. And all on a ship
vith - excellent food,
comfortable state-rooms and a
- Snever-failing passenger list of
entertaining people. There are
~~” “etourists like yourself, fishermen:
"--going home, trappers, loggers,
indians, miners, and just —
rdinary ree have

-ehosen to. cast their fates with
the rail with
j-regular passenger and get a
travelogue —-free. a
‘She ‘carries 80 cars and 400.
“ passengers every second day
“north during the summer
“months ‘from: Kelsey Bay to
: Prince Rupert, a 330-mile , 20-
“hour. trip. On her winter:
> *’gehedule, with 25 percent off
. \. summer rates, sailings north
~vare northbound Tuesday and

«Thursday and -southbound

Wednesday and Saturday.

‘For reservations, phone,
Write or wire British Columbia
‘Ferries, Box 1388, Victoria.
~The trick, of course, “is to.
make your reservations way
ahead and then plan your trip
up..through the Interior of ‘the
Province and then turn left .on
Highway 16 at Prince George
“> gnid doddle along to Prince

Rupert, Allow plenty of time.
><" The other way is to cross over,

~ 4. the Strait of Georgia to Victoria
“or Nanaimo ,and then dandy
your way to Kelsey Bay from”
Campbell River the day of
- sailing tobe in time for the 1:30
p.m, departure. Give yourself.
lots of time, because there is

a plenty to ‘see and Campbell

“River is world-famcus for its
= tyee’salmon) > ™ .
. +, Don't just dash away from
_-\. Prince Rupert. ‘There is’a fine .
--"} museum and, if possible, get
_... yourself invited on a tour of a
“-“fish cannery. It’s called The
Halibut Capital or The World.
‘No wonder. Nearly a quarter of
the world’s catch of this
delicious fish goes through this
‘port,
“ [t's a cosmopolitan little city
_and there is good fishing in the
area, salmon and trout. One of
the hotels or motels will be glad .
“ito eook your catch--- for a
~ -eonsideration, |
7 ‘Twenty-five miles east, on

“river, important in’ Canada’s
history and if it looks too low,

.days many, steamboats ran-up

,'- driving eastward over

Highway 16 as it heads for the,
“vast interior, the traveller —
iFeaches the Skeena.:A:famou

“famous

‘don’t::be-fooled,In the - early

this river as far as Hazelton

until the railroad went through

in 1912-13. These fairly large
boats were built with such
shallow draft that they could
navigate in 20 inches. of water.
Their captains and crews were
in the class of master mariners,
northern-river style.

Terrace is a surprise. A.
modern and bustling city just
where you wouldn’t expect one
to be. The answer: lumber and
pulp. Not too long ago it just a
few streets and a few house and.

a few stores. Progress indeed!

“South, on 40 good miles of
highway, is Kitimat. A city
literally carved out of
wilderness about 20 years ago.
They’ll be happy .to take you on
a tour of the Aluminum
Company of Canada’s smelter.
Be impressed. It’s a monument
to what can be done in the bush. -

Back to, Terrace. If you’re a
hunter, roads fan out to
everywhere, And this is hunting
country---bear, moose,
mountain goat, deer, grizzly
and sheep,

About 50 miles from the
Kitimat turn-off it is time for a
little exploring. Or, at least, a
chance to live it up a little . At
the Cedarville marker there is a
ferry crossing the Skeena. If the
weather is good, take it and
wind through the back country
‘on gravel roads through the old
Indian villages. Especially

- Kitwanga where the old poles,

now lying rotting, give the
watcher a sense of the power
carvers must have felt when -
they first attacked a giant tree.
‘Now the pole is down, the
figures decaying. But all is not
lost. Anthropologists believe
there are still about 65 poles in
this area that can be preserved.
That’s not counting the ones the
Indians may not have told
anyone about. —
Next stop, Hazeltdén. An old
place, as old places go in this,

- country. Visit ‘Ksan Village, a

project of Indians and whites to.
restore the important, highly
skilled, highly developed, part
of the native aristocracy of the
Interior, This project will long
outlive those who are devoting
time and effort to creating it.

At Morice Canyon east of
Hazelton the natives’ may be.
netting or spearing salmon, if
the runs are on. This is not sport.
to them. It is part of their winter
food, as in the old days. Notice
how skilled they are, and even
children have the knack of
flipping five-pounders onto the
rocks. — oO

A few words here. The
traveller should time his
driving to hit a larger town
when he wishes to quit for the
day. Highway 16 has sufficient
accommodation for ordinary
traffic. In other words, be a Boy
Scout and Be Prepared, Town
and village motels can be few
and far between.

Be sure and have the British
Columbia Tourist Directory:
handy. This thick guide,
affectionately called the Green
Book, tells everything you
need to know about your route,
wherever in the Province it

happens to be. Carry it always. .

If you want to study up on it
before your trip, and it is a good
idea, write to the Department of
Travel Industry, Parliament

re er Te he ee ee ee ee

in

By Barry Breadtoot

Buildings, ‘Vietoria, B.C. Ask
for a map, too.

‘Between - Burns Lake and
* Vanderhoof the attractions are -

mainly fishing and camping in

- good weather, and hunting in

winter. Just look at the map.

Trembleu and. Stuart the
largest. South, Francois, Ootsa,
and others:: Big fish, - big
country. Roads good, roads so-

so and-roads bad. Ask local -

people how they are, They

know. Never travel: deep. into
tthe back country. without
knowing how to handle yourself.

Never travel in very wet

weather,. and be concerned

about winter. Temperatures
can zoom far below zero and all

the fun of moose hunting can.
become a.matter of -plain:

survival if you are caught
‘unprepared.
One tip: eight miles south of

Burns Lake is Tchesinkut Lake

where rainbow trout of seven

-and eight pounds have been

caught and lake char weigh up
to 30 pounds. That's fishing!
And speaking of names.
Nearly 90 miles east of Prince
Rupert there is the Zymagotiz
River. It’s pronounced exactly
as it looks. Should keep the kids
busy for another 13 miles, eh?
South of Vanderhoof is
ranching country, the upper end

‘of the Chilcotin Plateau. Old’

roads lead down through this
country and, for a day or so, it is
worth a look. Some good fishing
and more good scenery than you
can shake a slick at. Even a
great big stick. .

HERALD TOURISM.GUIDE..

a

is Fort St. James, ‘where some

_ of.the old buildings remain of:

the Hudson’s, Bay post of the

- 1930’s---the’:. administrative:

capital” of ‘the early days.

“Fishing is good and when you ;
keep. a “tiny” four-pound lake’
North-lies the great’ chian of. trout the guides look at you and

lakes, with Babine, Takla,

shake their heads. Crazy
tourist! ~

And then the final haul into

Prince‘ George; a city that is

going places and lets everyone

know about it. Supply depot for
the vast northern area. Roaring

_and rushing with business, but

still that frontier element. Lots
of good motels and several
-hotels. Good
Everybody very friendly.

“From Prince George head

north over the Hart Highway to

the Peace River Country and on”
to the Yukon and Alaska. Or .}.
south over Highway 97 into the

Cariboo Country. You see,
everything about this Province

restaurants. ~

- is so big that areas are calle
countries. Or carry ‘on: eaé
Jasper and down the “western:
‘flanks’ .of . the ..Rockies. to “the.
Trans-Canada ‘Highway.

: Infact; you can go anywhere.
inthe’ world from: Prince
_ George. The funny. thing ‘s,’.a
many have come from all over

the world and that’s where.they |
want to plump down and settle—".

-Prince George.

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