The following is part owe of tree articles on travels in Japan, mart 2 ois fod Aegicsé (sci, After some intensive touring time in the prefecture of Ishikawa, our group boarded the “Thunderbird Express” exiting Kanazawa city and arriving in Kyoto afew hours later. Kyoto is a large and well organized two storey city. Not many tall towers, but instead low rise neighbour- hoods set along very narrow passageways masquerading as strects. More reserved and refined than Tokyo or Osaka, it seems to be a product of a slower more consid. ered planning process. The most notable pottery area of Kyoto is in the Gion district just cast of the main downtown shopping aca of Shijo-dori and surrounding the tourtst district onthe approach to Kiyomizu Dera, a famous temple complex on the eastem foothills. This is an area Where one can walk down anarrow alley and watch porcelain paint- ers meticulously repeating standard pat- terns in underglaze bloc. The home and workshop of Kanjiro Kawai is preserved a5 2 museum and is inconspicwously nes- tled right next to the Geisha district. His kilns (a Noborngama and a small enamel kiln) are stall intact but no longer in use due toahan on woodfiring within the city. Just afew doors down the street however there is sal a working pottery run by a member of his family, Kawai is often mentioned in Kawal Kanjire Large vise stoneware, iron, copper red and cobalt pigments on opaque glaze. H: approx $5.0 cen Potters in Kyoto by Gary Cherneff association with his contemporarics Bernard Leach and Shoji Hamada, The Pottery on display shows his affection for Folk craft aesthetics but with an eclectic, distinctly modernist twist in his use of form and colour and decoration. Different from Kawai's work, the his- toneal pottery style of this area is called Kiyomizu-yaki. It has a reserved cultivated and often delicate look for a conservative ur- ban upper class taste. Frequently it is deco- rated with slips, underglaze painting (blue and white} and overglaze enamels, Of course Kyotois the home of the Raku tra- dition and one is re- minded that Ogata Kenzan also worked here, Both approaches to pottery making are related to the tea ceremony and are certainly consissent with the aesthetic sensibilities of this city. Our host for part of our stay in Kyoto was Haraguchi-san who is a fine potter, With his wife and daughter he operates a small Japanese Inn (Ryokan) called Tenesian {translate as“ the blue cobour of sky after the rain”). Tenesian hovers high on the slope above the Yasaka Shrine in Maruyama Park, The location is sur- rounded with temples and shrines, restau- rants and small hillside shopping areas offering handmade objects of all descrip- tons, Haraguchi-san works in a disciplined and methodical way. Just a pleasant 4) minute walk southward, his rumbling and crowded studio is located in a back alley within the busy Gion district not far from Kiyormizu— dera, His style is based on Chinese proto- types using crackle (cracked ice) surfaces and blue celaden glazes (the colour after Which his Inn is named) with large pattern crazing. He shows ws a cross section through a broken piece demonstrating an exquisitely thin shell covered by a very Haraguchi, Takushi Lidded container Stoneware, Come |O reduction fired, iron blue glaze with large crackle pattern with gold luster. H: 21,8 cm thick opaque glaze, which surprisingly results in a somewhal weighty vessel. His work is dependent on a careful match- ing of clay and glaze to control coeffi- cients of expansion. Precise glaze applica- tion is crucial to de- velop the correct thick- ness for colour devel- opment. The quality of iron oxide is also acon- cem in terms of purity and particle size. Haraguchi-san uses the iron manufactured for the magnetic recording tape industry. His vase forms can be complex and our inecli- nation isto assume they are made by joining several pieces, He pa- tiently explains that he must throw them out of one piece of clay to maintain the control over his original concept. He laments the lack of time to be more expressive and spontaneous with his work, As a counter- point to his more deliberate practice be has. developed a technique to paint metallic silver over a black glaze with a coarse brush. The effect is dramatic and almost fun. He states it is one of the easier of his techniques to manage, Haraguchi-san ex- hibits his work in Japan, other countries in Asia and the United States where he will have a show in the near future. Although most of our trip was carefully planned and arrangements were made for us to visit selected potters, the stay in Kyoto was set up a an opportunity to float whichever way the wind took ws. One of these serendipitous excursions took us to the Daimuru depirtment store. [t is com- mon that on the upper floors of these still vibrant institutions one will encounter not only a large section devoted to handcrafts but also associated exhibition galleries for fine art and crafts. As luck would have it, on a search for traditional textiles, we stumbled upon the opening day of an exhi- bition by Shigaraki potter, Kato Takahiko. See Potters in Kyoto next page