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British star models fashions---for export only

Sally Gray, lovely English star of Green
1gned by Simon Massey. The brown an
& matching three-quarter length coat. T

Carly—

to the ‘studio. British film producers hasten to

for Danger, wears the attractive three-piece suit (right)
ad white striped jacked is worn over a plain brown skirt
he coat (left) is the one she wears every morning—
add that these clothes are for export only,

_e they apparently have no place under Britain’s austerity program.

New British fashions reflect women’s

rebellion here against longer skirts

ed

viewers agreed today it is bo
Olyneux and Worth showe
selettes if need be, round, even padde
designers seemed to agree that fema

tain M
With ¢
B am Or,

ar
hip narrow-shouldered and broad-

and should be dressed ac-

co

*dingly, For curve-less women

: advocated drapes, _ flares,
and canvas stiffening.

reba, 2PParent sympathy with

ous American women,
WwW) 7
a: find longer skirt lengths
May war-decreed short hems
in fhe iced & complete change
et, 4 rdrobe regardless of budg-
ang eners showed suit skirts
But i 16 inches from the floor.
ora american buyers inexorably
ek hems down.
hemi Hardy Amies lowered
ch “ad of his models to 13 in-
to ee the floor to conform
€S of American buyers.
* * *

handsome materials and
Classic cuts highlighted
€day winter fashion pai-

Rich
Simple’
the tiy,
ade,

Tavolyeq .

twee
“titerion ds

Se of grain of Brit-
oF baat simple cutting—
~ex: real couture clothes
Pert nely difficult. Tweed ex-
Jacket BN Morton cut dress and
and ai n dual weaves, horizontal
Wit, Smal, in the same colors
C) chi ey. of line which is
€f characteristic of Brit-

CONSTANTINE

FINE
CUSTOM TAILORING

Fo ie
Ladies’ and Gentlemen

*
501 Granville Street

Pee. PAclta —

LONDON—Britain’ en couturiers, fashion dictators for most
the Pat cepe tt ees Sinouedte in a week of winter shows recently completed and
th seductive and practical. Clothes by ; :
d shoulders sloping and natural, wasp waists nipped in
d, hips and skirts either slim or swirling. The
les, contrary to billboard and magazine art,

a

of the world, launch-

such experts as Cap-

ish dressing. Colors were quiet

and combinations restrained.
Worth’s colors were muted, cof-
fee brown, weak tea, orchid gray
with a variety of heather mix-
tures and soft yellows, Molyneux
emphasized black and white.
Norman Hartnell was 4 little
more daring with cerise and red.
Amies had all shades of green,
from clear wintergreen to dark
olive green.
*

Bustlines were accented with
drapes, bodices, criss-cross mate-
drapes, bodices, criss-cross or

* *

Jackets were cutaway,
gently flaring in the back or
stiffened out over hips. They
varied from 29 inches for the tall
and slender to 25 or 27 for the
short. :

Interesting . individual ideas
‘were: Creed’s all-over use of
buttons, Worth’s and Creed’s
intricate pocket detail for hip
emphasis, De Langhe’s Elizabe-
than puffed pockets. Digby Mor-
ton’s velvet collar revers, breast
pockets and cuffs for ‘city
slicker’ suits, Worth’s gilt chains
which swung from belts of day
dresses.

buttons.

FASHION NOTE

FRIp
AY, AUGUST 22, 1917

Women to hold the hemline

LAS—If the reaction of
ae eine women to the new
long skirt fashions foisted on
them by American designers is
anything like that of women in
this Texas city, womens dress
manufacturers had better start
checking over their anticipated
profits again.

In an organized protest against
long skirts, 1,300 _ women here
have formed a Little-Below-the-
Knee Club, whose members are
pledged to hold oe Seg at its

t pleasant level.
eens of the club is Mrs.
Warren Woodward, 24 year-old
housewife, who told newspaper-
men: “I don’t feel. like throw-
ing away My entire wardrobe and
a lot of other women feel the

same way.” e

At a club meeting, another
member, Mrs. A. B. Taylor,
amused members by recalling:
“During the first World War I
wore hobble skirts and I had to
hoist them when I got on a
street car. A few years later
skirts were above my knees and
I had to hold them down when
I got on a street car. Well, I’m
fed up with this foolishness from

New York and Paris.”

Another woman observed: “The
new fashions may suit those wo-
men who have nothing better to
do than attend social affairs and
play bridge.. They’re just plain
awkward for working girls. I
can’t afford to replace my ward-
robe at today’s high prices and
neither can most women I know.”

Talking things over

leave their under school age young-
sters during the daytime.

It’s a serious problem for mar-
ried women with children who are
forced to work because their hus-

‘| bands’ earnings are not sufficient

to provide decently for their fami-
lies in these days of high prices
and unchecked profiteering.

It’s also a problem for women
whose struggle to make ends
meet forces them to shop around
for the best buys and whose only
alternative, unless they have fri-
endly neighbors or relatives liv-
ing nearby,
children to the tiring crush of
crowded stores and jam-packed
street cars. How can they man-
age to take part in community
life? The marvel is that so many
of them do. ;

Our provincial and civic govern-
ments, under pressure from
groups which are opposed to the
idea of married women working,
have shown themselves to be most
reluctant in assisting the estab-
lishment of day nurseries, despite
the need for them. And it is not
altogether surprising that a pri-
vate group endeavoring to es-
tablish its own nursery should run
into the kind of obstruction met
by the Tenants Committee of the
hostel at the old Vancouver Hotel.

em ue

EARLIER this month, the Ten-
ants Committee decided to stage
a carnival as a means of raising
funds for the nursery it is setting
up in the hostel. And no one who
has been around the place will
deny that it’s not exactly the ideal
place to raise kids.

As soon as the committee start-
ed work it began to run into dif-
ficulties. The Gitizens Rehabilita-
tion Council refused it permission.
to put posters up in the hostel.
Then, as the carnival opened at
English Bay, a city police prowler
car was constantly stationed on
the spot, with police officers mak-
ing themselves conspicuous around
the booths.

There’s not much doubt that
this was inspired by a blast
against ‘gambling’ made by. R.
Rowe Holland, chairman of Van-
couver Park Board, who was se-
conded by Arnold Webster, the
CCF member, and it will prob
ably be argued that it was all in
the public interest. :

To members of the Tenants
Committee, however, it was in-
timidation, and they are hopping
mad about it. They might not
have minded so much, perhaps, if
a similar Canadian Legion affair
held at the same time at Mount
Pleasant had not been left strictly
alone, as they feel theirs should
have been.

The upshot is that the Tenants
Committee raised little more than
$100, hardly enough to equip and
operate a nursery, and a project
which could have made life a
little easier for women living un-
der far from ideal conditions has
suffered. ‘

x. 2k

I SEE that us women are ex-
pected to endure the discomforts
of whalebone-reinforced girdles
and hobble-type skirts if we want
to be in the fashion swim. Well, if
it means that I have to dispense
with easy-to-wear, sensibly de-
signed dresses and_ suits for
clothes that properly passed out
with women’s restricted status 30
years ago, then I guess I’ll be out
of style—and I still won’t stand
out in a crowd. :

A fashion item I have before
Me says, oh so simply: “Madam,
to be in the latest fashion, must
discard her old wardrobe and or-
der a completely new set of
clothes.” Can you afford to throw
away all your clothes? Neither
can I. You’d think the fashion
designers had never heard about
the cost of living. And, from the
kind of women they’re designing
clothes for, they probably haven't.

ZENITH CAFE

105 E. Hastings

Vancouver

is to subject their |.

The daily round

ONE OF the biggest problems for married women in
this day and age, which gives women the right to participate
in industry, community and political life but too often denies
them the opportunity, is the lack of nurseries where they can

PATTERN FEATURE

A cool date dress that’s as
smart as can be, Pattern $197
comes in sizes 12 to 20. Send
25c im coin, your name and ad-
dress, pattern number and size
to Sue Burnett, Federated, Press
Pattern Service, 1150 Avenue of
the Americas, New York 19, N.Y. —

HAVE YOU ever tried canning
your own soup. It’s twice as tasty
as the store variety and more
economical in the long run, of
course. Here’s a recipe for can-
ned tomato soup which will never
fail to give your dinner added
tastiness and nourishment.

.30 ripe tomatoes.

10 fairly large, mild onions.

1 head of celery.

Cut these vegetables up and
boil together for one hour. Force
through a sieve. Add %4 cup light
brown sugar,, 2 tablespoons of
salt,,a pinch of cayenne pepper.
Let all come to a full rolling boil,
then add % cup, flour blended .
to a paste with a little cold
water. Cook until soup thickens.
Bring to full boil and bottle in
sterile jars. To serve, dilute with
milk and add a chunk of butter.

Style
Value

Quality

Always at the Home
of UNION MADE
CLOTHING — and
Friendly Service

Established For
Over 40 Years

4 E. Hastings — Vancouver
Phone PAc. 8645

PACIFIC TRIBUNE—PAGE 7