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Dubrovnik — a sea of red-tiled roofs, as seen from

Minceta Fort on the wall.

Stairway
to heaven

by Teresa Unger |

First day,
Dubrovnik

Each morning we too
awoke, at 6 a.m. to the
_ ever-present peal of the
Church bells marking the
hours of the day as they
have done for many cen-
turies.

Dubrovnik is set on
a rocky sun-drenched
shore in the Mediterra-
nean. Palm trees and
grape vines shade private
places and restaurants,
in sharp contrast to the
brilliance of the sun and
sea.

Narrow streets and an
eternity of stairs separate
the sturdy white stone
buildings with rosy red-
tiled roofs,

This is a pedestrian ci-
ty, only the ocassional
small city-repair vehicle
is allowed in. Even the
street cleaning is done by
hand — each day the
man came, with his
broom and bucket on a
cart. The city is kept
spotlessly clean, an ex-
pression of affection and
pride the inhabitants
have for their home.

Our days in Dubrov-
nik were spent exploring,
shopping and lounging
on the rocks sunbathing.

On our first day we
found a nice outdoor
restaurant on the Prijen-
do, a side street of cafes.
We ate most of our lun-
ches there and met some
very interesting people,
who sat with us on the
days when it was crowd-
ed,

Every time we went to
our chosen spot, we
passed a pizza restaurant
and each day the man
would try to entice us to

taste his fare — each
time we thanked him and
passed on. By the end of
our visit, he greeted us
with a large smile, as if
we were valued cus-
tomers, even though we

had never eaten at his:

establishment.

The old city

Stari Grad, the old ci-
ty, is a museum in itself,
with churches and other
fine buildings.

As you enter the main
Pile Gate there is the
large Onophrion Foun-
tain, across the Placa is
the Franciscan Monas-
tery. In the cloister,
along with the old
books, music sheets and
paintings, is a display of
the original pharmacy —
one of the oldest in
Europe, 1317.

At the far end of the
Placa is the Dominican
Monastery, its church is
filled with lavish paint-
ings, tryptiches and the
most beautiful cross.

Turning toward the
sea, is the City Bell tower
whose famous ‘green
men”, bronze figures,
chime the hours. Across
and to the right in the
square, is St. Blais
Church, the church that
honors St. Blais, Du-
brovnik’s patron saint.
Further up the street and
to the left is the Rector’s
Palace.

Within its walls are
richly decorated period

‘rooms and a large collec-

tion of inlaid chests and
gilt on leather wall hang-
ings.

The rector stayed
alone in the palace for
his one-month mandate,
away from his family
and other distractions.

Last week Terrace resident Teresa Unger described
the adventures she and her husband Len Winter ex-
perienced on their arrival in that famous jewel on the
adriatic, Dubrovnik, in Yugoslavia. Here Teresa
talks about their first day in the ‘‘walled city’’.

Up the stairs and on intricately painted Rus-
the right was the cathe- sian icons.

dral, but it was closed One of the more lively
for repairs on some eat- ‘exhibits was an excellent

thquake damage. display at th j
The treasury had been jp, Poe John’s. Tower

relocated, so we saw the There was so much to
magnificient gold and see, each street offered
silver, but most in- more.

teresting were the relics
of St. Blais; a hand, leg,
foot and the skull.

They were encased in
ornate gold and jewels,
with mesh sections so
that the actual relic could
be seen.

On a side street, to the
back and up a flight or
two of stairs, was the
Icon Museum. Here was
a glorious display of
gilded Madonna and
Child icons, St. George
and the Dragon, another
popular motif, and many

Seaward side

Our favorite swim-
ming spot was on the
seaward side of St.
John’s Tower. Everyone
wore a bikini, even the
over 80s, regardless of
their size. It is the only
acceptable mode of
beach dress.

Well, there also is
nude and semi-nude
bathing, although this is
generally restricted to
specific beaches, ours

A favorite luncheon spot at the Upi Cjenko in Dubrovnik.

Terrace Review — Wednesday, Jan. 29, 1986 17

hot being one, no one
seemed to notice. Several
teenage girls spent each
lunch hour catching a bit
of sun, all over,

A little past our rock,
young men dove off the
rocks and played in the
water most days. Al-
though it isn’t con-
sidered proper here, it
seemed perfectly natural
there.

One day, a young man
in a very fast motor boat
came flashing into our
little cove, we assume to
impress the young ladies.

In his enthusiasm, he
stalled his machine.

The next hour was one
of hair-pulling, fervent
supplications to heaven
and a partial dismantel-
ing of the engine. With a
little help from a young
swimmer, who had wat-
ched him for half an
hour, the much-
chastened youth, re-
started his engine and
departed, very slowly
and carefully.

On our return in the

Continued p.20
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