The best technical information I have seen about clay is a series of
articles which Luke Lindoe of Medicine Hat is writing. He has issued
the first article - the others are to follow.

For information about B,C, clay (for those who want to find their own)
there is "Clay and Shale Deposits of B.C., Bulletin No. 30", by

I, M, Cummings and J.W.McCameron, published by the B.C, Dept. of
Mines, Victoria.

With all this preamble, more in the nature of an excuse to myself, I
think I can write down some of the information, procedures and
recipes which I have gathered for what they are worth by themselves.

I use powdered clay bought locally and mix it myself. Generally, I
wanted a fairly sandy stoneware clay that had good texture when cut,
was a good dark colour and would give me no drying problems. I have
cravings for certain kinds of qualities in clay which are akin to craving
strawberries or ice cream perhaps. Recently I have had a craving for
a smooth, white porcelain clay. Obviously these are all conditioned by
my experience and those attitudes I have been referring to.

Stoneware type clay fired at cone 8 - 10 reduced.
50 Ibs. ball clay (Sask: ''Pottery").

50 lbs. fine fireclay.
10-20 Ibs. Silica sand 40/30 mesh,

25-50 Ibs. Bear Creek (low fire red) clay.

The ball clay, fireclay, and sand I purchase from Fairey & Co.,
Vancouver. The Bear Creek clay comes from Mr. J. Wickson,
Vancouver. A possible alternative to Bear Creek Clay is Haney red
clay obtained from Fairey & Co.

I find that grog (at least the kind I have come into contact with) is
rather sharp in particle shape in comparison to this sand. I prefer
sand because it gives me a "bready" texture when cutting feet. Grog,
to my eyes, looks added, obvious. One might want this obvious quality
for specific purposes though. For that matter other inert or combus-
tible material such as vermiculite, asbestos powder or coffee ae ie