* “But ‘the. creative person.
“nas to" Abe. ‘commercial -
‘@nough’: to listen. to the”
“manufacturer. And. -the
Manufacturer. ‘must . know
"something —: about’ =the
designer's problems.
“You must be senaltive to
each other's needs.”
Soltis not surprising that
some of the most successful
* famnion’ houses in Canada
‘today are happy
“marriages! ‘between
. Gesigner and manufacturer,
‘One company -that is often
held up as the ideal — even

by — — is the

: ‘at's “with bro

thers,

"Joseph, ‘and Saul Mimran,-
», Joseph. oversees production :
~ and Saul takes care of eales, :

— I couldn't. do the whole’

-- Communication: :,

That. is extremely im

*, portant." :

“Sung says that creatively -
he has no restrictions. But -
he adds. that freedom «ac:
tually is balanced by: the.

‘practical consideration of
who his customers are and
what they ate willing to pay
for the end product. - -

That. means designs
cannot beso complicated:

that the grice of Inbor.

skyrockets, nor can he use
extreniely costly fabrics,

- Chevalier, ap it turns out, :

is something -of a
polygamist, . having
different ‘companies under

have faith in...
oT sThey only wast jou to. ;
. help. thelr’ - business: in-- Sosen, this route
: Crease, But a dealguer label :

-. Chnnot.” save :-a tall
business,’ oo

7 y around, ‘as
. “atten, the case):to make his,
° ‘men's ‘and ladies’ wear.

: Hes has- “contempt ° “for:

‘manitactdrers who only.

‘approach deslgnera ‘ who’
-themeclves, not ones they:

Wayne ‘Clark: is’ ‘another:
designer who is happy with

~ his: situation. He is. an:.

employee of ‘Aline Marella
Lid,, where he has worked
‘for the last six years. |
. “T know. 1'm one of. the
lucky ones,’ ho gays of his
cteative dreedoin, He also
appreciates freedom from
buslness concerns.

““f don't want to know

about the problem of run-.

ning a company. I could not.

ies do that. I need . satintace
Contract .to tim (oat the © ;

tion.”*

he J
ie “Thay have opted”
out of business relationships —

ensures quality,:

Itt also faster and less

“expensive * than - sending -
work out. to contractors,

* despite keeping people. on
ateff even when oe not

bun, abe ald:

| A controller keepa - track”
of the finances and looks at

her books once a waek.
Te tumned out ta bé a very

scot move for. me," he

Some | of: “the designer:
/ Mamulachurer ‘Heine are:
tinue to'do the haute couture

design £ ‘those:  fruinses | fe

endl: instead. hays, taken:

wh have" made :-names. for -:contral <. af: thelr i
~ ing by” myself,” Sung |

Bayt. “What makes It work:

“ln that we have veey good.

“soni eis

SPE ra cae NAY

éa in ‘the case of Christian
Dior Canada Ine,

, Executive: vloe-preaident
“Johanna Jacobs stresses the

DA Bohan created the ready-to-,
OF” wear -detigns in Paria and |
re ae ee ee tylist hi :
BS a. production on & em gen ere adapted
dally bast which she saya

them. for the-’ Canadian
‘market. But Jacobs says

~ that’ doesn't mean — the |
clothes are leas fashionable...
 §he recounts how she met _

‘Bohan when he visited

Montreal and she was -

wearing & navy coat with

‘gold piping. Bohan had

designed it with black
leather Piping, but sald he

‘over the Paris ready-to-

_ wear line when Bohan was
‘hamed world-wide ‘artlstic

director. Bohan will con-

. ‘line.

NATO discusses. attacks

BRUSSELS |
North

(AP) —
-Ailantic . Treaty

Organiiation countries
should stop spending money ©

‘to build. arms other allies
have already developed, the
Canadian chairman of. the
NATO military committee
tald today. '

“The amount of ‘money ;

needed ‘could he

days ti tall About how to

Polish crackdown planned ~

WARSAW (AP) — The
Communist: party: Central

Comuilttee.has endorsed 2

-‘militayit' new policy of in-
tensiffed struggle to silence.

Gissidents,. while also ad-
mitting ‘martial law has
failed to achieve all its

, Urging Poles to “take up
the ¢ommen effort . of

the Politburo ackhowledged
the party has “not attalned

defend Europe ‘againt a

Soviet attack, ‘They also will

try to contain the latest
alliance equabiles over:

“Toney, -

* Ministers - from : 12
Europea _ “eountrles,.
meeting briefly on the eve of

today’s session, issued an

unusually blunt charge that
the: United States does not,

buy enough weapons from

ee rexreag of the

‘decreed martial law Dec. a

decgroumd. succeeded . in

Weinberger would . not
comment on the accusation
as. he... entered © NATO
headquarters today for the
meeting.

there is a “present” un-

|. satistactory Aeatalane’” ti in
- favor: ;

balance, wo

Norwegian .. Defence
Minister Andere Sjaastad,
spokesman for the group,
sald: “Our problem is that
in (the U.S.) Congress there
are restrictions which make
it difficult to export our
peoducts - to the - United
Sta . , - .

He said the ratls between

: purchases of U.8, weapons

and European arma by any

fiel ” “gince  Jaruselaki
18, 1981.

‘Under. matlitary tule the
government suspended and
later outlawed the in-

- dependent union Solidarity,

but the banned organization
and ita leader Lech Walesa
‘still enjoy a wide following

among workers, farmers,
and Intellectuals. =~
Solidarity. un-

organizing mam, anti

: ‘agreement, at
peskene ae

; “prices plummeting.

“trading, the dollar hit new.

man ‘

ent . demonstrat-

. fons in 30 Polish cities on

May Day despite govern-
ment attempts tointimidate

' the protesters.

One’ western diplomat

with Jong: experience in
- Eastern Europe sald the

Politburo _Teport was
worded niore “militantly -
than previous speeches by
senior party leaders.

Be sald the stress on

| ‘-wonpad (aP)-— Dao
Taat

‘gummit.on rors
Aintertat rates, Sates re’.

-gending, the WB.
_ Selle ‘soaring. and’ gold
‘In hectle Buropean
trading records against the

French franc and ‘Tallan .

lira. .

Gold prices, which.
tumbled in. New, Yotk
the Far East and Europe

thie morning .to a level |

around #415 U.S. to 6418 an

the desired results in all- ounce.

Producers. .

European country ts up to
16-to-1 in favor of American

Sjaastad = sald ~—s the
Europeans had no plans to
embargo U.S: weapons or
withhold help the United
States. is seeking from.
Europeans in meeting

- crises in Ania or other areas

outside - NATO territory. |
‘We shouldn't do too much |
horse trading.” = |

But if the imbalance
persiats Europeans will be
buying less from the U.S.
and” Increasing intra:
ae arms trade, he

"The cries for more U8.

Europe that weapons sales
in an alliance that spends

+, more than @976 billion a.
“Year on armeocan'boost |"
recession gripped. @cono-

mica,
. There also ia fear that a

Europe
behirid in the race with the .
U.S, and Japan for high

technology spinofia -that
keep _ businesses com~
petitive,
Officials from several
non-US, delegations said
there also would be. allied
resistance at the meeting to.

“struggle” was an apparent

concession to hardliners

allied with the Kremlin,

‘which always has opposed :
Solidarity and urged Polish —

leaders to demand strict
obedianca to. the party’s
monopoly on. - political

power. “
The report sald the party

must “recover the con-
fidence and gain the support’
of. the ‘working class.” ft

said “there ‘are still many -

weaknesses and short-

‘eomiige” in the party's -

relations with young people.
.. In a: separate’ develop-

ment, the. Pollsh govern:

tient rejected a.

inquiry by the ‘INTER-

NATIONAL Labor *:

Organjkation into- Itq-laboy

policies;‘and threatined to
withdraw from the Geneva-
hileed . United. Nations
‘ageney. ‘

a pecan tstoment

V

bullion dealer said’

con had -quistened

; -perfas me “e's -a: very
market.” Gold had
‘doldrums ;

been. in © the ©
arond #658 on cence for the

last two months.

Unexpectedly high UB:
money supply growths the

major factor behind rising toda:
" American. ‘interest. rates.
The rate on Federal Funds ©

between banks — — climbed to
tine per cent from 8,675'on
Tuesday.

‘The Federal Reserve may r

have to restrict.

\

cra

NATO

- Toesday.

US. proposals for a major
increase in spending. for’
infrastructure:
roads,
bases, pipelines and ‘other
facilities. . ;

The current plan calls for

spending $1.4 billion during .
the next two years. NATO
commanders, supported by - .

the Reagan administration,

wantto increase the fund by.

‘nearly $1 billion,. with each.
country paying @ proper
- onal share. ;

“West Germany is very,
reluctant to go that high and -
I think that’s about ‘the

handed’ to reporters in the .

Swiss city said if the ILO

plied clas al
‘vote at the annual con- -

ference. for failure to pay

‘mexpberahip ques, ‘They
ft owes more than #

Poland has argued that its’
labor eltuation was réetur-
ning to a state of “nor-

_ malisation’ following the

outlawing of Solidarity and_

aid {thad provided the ILO

with adequate information
for jis review, But an ILO
compilttee reported that the.
Polish’ government ignored
requests to allow an ILO

envoy to meet we Walesa. :

Gold: prices plummet

ite mid-morning, 8,

further to coatrol monelary

“growth | and Inflation,” a.
ministration official said:

ad-_

One ‘Dutch trader,

referting to the Willlam-—

aburg agreement on cutting

- interest rates to fual world
: Commented .

recovery,*
today: "They bald interest

. Fates would come down, but’

they're doing tha opposite.”
In Hong Kong, the U.8.

_ dollar cloved at a record
high 7.225 «Hong Kong

dollars, up. from 7.14

-alr-raid shelters,

AS ‘ls often the case

” @lsewhere, not all business”

. Marriages work out. -

’. Montreal dealgner Jean-
Claude Poltvas recently left
‘Beverini ‘Inc.,, saying he.

wanted new challenges,

He added that bis first:

- buy Wayne one ft

"Maybe. "sotmeday she'll .

‘have more money, and. will

want to buy the real thing.”
; Jacobs said copies are not.
a problem | for. “Christian
; presented: so late itis dif.
‘Aloult for anyone.to copy -

them in the same -caazon.

-The concerns of designers

and their manufacturers -

are not necessarily typical

of the reat.of the clothing

industry in Canada.
The. Canadian . Apparel

© Maniifacturers Institute, an -

Ottawa-based - federation

Fepresenting . provincial,
" ona, Wouldliketoseeimport
levels: for clothing’ rolled.
‘back 20 per oni, bo. ‘1980
‘levels. .

* The institute says that in

60,000... :
But Chevaller’ says. he Js

not adversely effected by |
. imports," mainly because -.
. they are not vying for the
‘pame customer, Most im-

love had always'been todo.

-.tmen’a wear and that he. - 0+
‘wanted to try his luck in'the

‘United States, neither . of

which was likely to happen -—---—

if he stayed at Beverinl, =~
-Poltras is setting uv a
‘shop he hopes will be ready a
by September that is being. 2.
‘financed by an Itallan- =: '.
 bisinessman. Poltras vould: :
, not name, ;
-: Some’ of -the rélationships Si
between: designer. and.»
"manufacturer are more.
“gomnmonlaw: than strlotly. 7"
\ ibaa, .
; _Giatk ay aa of at

leist:

“they're. not’ really wie.
‘because ©
s~ they’re not selling to people
- who know the difference. If -

dercutting” me

and wax less often.

associati-'

group. of
three years the ‘number of
apparel industry employees
has dropped .. y 30,000- to-

T5-CENTRE:

Za Available at your iocul

ports come: in wnder ‘Ale
‘price range except for other. .
“name. designers: who are |
‘likely tobe more expensive,
“"Yyea St, Laurent’s $8000. i
‘akirt fg my $400 skirt. Were it
not hurting. each other!"
~ A-Consultant hired by a
30: Toronto...

designers ‘gald projections

“from 10 major retail centres
in Canada show that by.1633
‘there will be $8.8 billion in _
sales of fashton-related _
merchandise, - — ,
‘Ten’ per. cent,” or e800 a

million of that, is expected.
tobe designer merchandise.

ohn

B&meart coupon |
EXPIRES OCTOBER 31,1963

Retailers:

‘increase your -

"advertising impact with

Co-op

_ ADVERTISING

Most: informed retailers understand the power-
a at effects of advertising in keeping their busi-

"Ness economically secure. What you may not

be aware of is that you can increase the impact

or your advertising by making use of co-op

_ funds available to you right now. We'll help you

~ Search out those funds and design: a plan for
: “using that money. effectively and efficiently.

Mts YOUR MONEY . .. use it or lose it...

635-6387

oe ST ee