_Tom Morris, assistant. editor of the Canadian Tribune, re- Ports first-hand what he found on a recent extensive tour of Indochina. He spoke to and photographed many walks of life on the back roads and big cities as he travelled to the northern border of Vietnam (Lang Son, de- stroyed by the Chinese); south to Ho Chi Minh City and envi- puchea, including the capital Phnom Penh, were he found the deep scars of the inhuman Pol Pot regime. He looked at the horror, but also at the hope expressed by the people. based on their own abilities ‘TOM MORRIS VISITS _ A DEVASTATED LAND _ STRUGGLING TO REBUILD people from. rons; to- Laos; and to Kam-. the first of Tom Morris’ reports and the help of their friends. _- about the reality of Kampuchea . Here, in words and photos, is today. yi Former Cambodian dictator Pol rectly or by implication, they have ~ Pot appeared on television footage _ accused the new government of re- _ from ‘‘somewhere in Cambodia” _ sponsibility for the situation there. just two days afterIreturnedfrom_ - soi aad that country. The film showed him From April, 1975 until January, smiling and reports him saying 1979 Kampuchea endured a . that “‘only a few thousand persons —_ holocaust — a Maoist experiment were killed by mistake” under his conducted with such brutality, - regime. such precision that three million Other Western press beforeand humans were butchered, a during my visitto Phnom Penh re- _ centuries-old culture smashed ported that Kampuchean officials have denied access to relief sup- plies, are driving thousands of per- sons to Thailand. Rosalynn Carter was photographed with a Kam- puchean baby and various other Western leaders have come from refugee camps in neighboring Thailand with horrendous stories of death and starvation. Either di- and an economy dismantled. Pol Pot, Ieng Sary and the Khmer Rouge were the instrument. But the ideological and material bac- Kers were the Maoist leaders in Peking. Phnom Penh might well be one of the most beautiful cities in Asia. Its broad streets, the Mekong riverside, its parks and + | 1 | 3 | NO ASSES RMB pts A street in downtown Phnom Penh. Utilities are resumed, the marketplace pagodas are a blend of lightness and efficiency. It has been a ghost city for 48 months and today, at best esti- mates, some 20-30,000 people have returmed, a mere trickle, but giving the streets once again a sense of life. Of Kampuchea’s former 7.5 million inhabitants, some 4.5 million remain, the rest dead and scattered. There are 50 professors left; 207 high school teachers, 69 medical doctors, 121 artists, 30 persons who speak a foreign language. A kilo of rice, the currency of the land, will buy a kilo of fish. The country’s constitution is being written, thousands of or- phans fed and placed in schools just starting to function. Aid is ar- riving from many quarters particularly from the socialist community. Cargo ships and barges ply the Mekong from Ho Chi Minh City -in neighboring Vietnam to Phnom Penh off. loading food, medicines, machin- ery and other needed supplies. The USSR has sent 159,000 tons of food so far, Vietnam 120,000 tons. Newly acquired trucks are dis- tributing supplies (the Maoists Life slowly returns to the once- deserted city of 1.5-million people restored after four years of terr : aaa smashed the transport sat right down to bicycles). Med! centres are opening, as schools. We spoke to the DU Red Cross, unloading supplies Pochentong airport, who tolé ¥ 100,000 tons of food a week W& coming in and being moved We spoke to Kampucheé thorities who said the remné Pol Pot’s troops are being pus! north and are being aided by 14 land and China in the vain BOE they may again take power. — When asked about charges # Kampuchea was hindering relie efforts from outside these official! PHNOM PENH — It is swel- tering as we bump.over the back _ road toward the former high school. Along the way, through the residential area of fine old houses now deserted, each of us is lost in his own thoughts. Our group is composed of about 15 journalists from as many countries. We are only minutes away from what we dreaded, but knew we had to see. Stories about the Toul Sleng extermination camp discovered after the fall of Pol Pot were familiar news, but seeing it in all its horror would be a painful and sobering morning. The three buildings are marked “A”, “B” and “‘C’’. Today, al- most a year later, a sign hangs over the barbed wire and metal gate. It was not there before, the school having been turned into a prison in August, 1975 by Pol Pot’s Ministry of the Interior and National Security. More than 20,000 people were brutally murdered here between August, 1975 and January, 1979. At liberation, only eight emaciated and battered persons were found alive among the de- bris, the dead and the shocking sights in every room. Social standing,-sex, profession or beliefs were no barrier to the agents, guards and torturers. They died in their thousands, many illiterate, bewildered and not understanding why. Patriots of the liberation struggle saa persons without any politi ideas as victims. Age meant no- thing — the old and young killed as one. Buildings ‘‘B’’ and ‘‘C’’ were FOR SLEKa exe i - pascts a lron and barbed wire gates lead you inside Pol Pot’s extermination camp on the outskirts of Phnom Penh. prisons housing people in tiny, hastilly-built cells. Building ‘‘C’’ is strung with wire mesh to pre- vent prisoners committing suicide. The three together form a large courtyard. We begin at building ‘‘B’’, . walking under the shadow of a noose hanging from a makeshift crossbar where victims were hanged in sight of other prisoners. Moving along a connected bal- cony we glance through iron bars into cells barely large enough fora person to lie in. These were former classrooms which had been roughly divided into 10-12 cells each. Iron shackles are screwed into the floors; each hovel contains a small mat, tin box for a toilet and nothing else. Prisoners were forbidden to speak or make any noise, despite The cells are just big enough to lie down in. They died in their thousands intense suffering. One room in the large building with a single cold water tap served as a shower. No one was untied even for this pur- pose. I step inside one cell and stoop to examine someone’s name scratched into the brick wall. It . Must have taken days, and I won- der who this-person was, what he or she looked like, what happened to them... The group files through numbed. We barely hear the voice of our guide. It is as if the mind is automatically shutting out his words. ‘‘On May 27, 1978 they killed 582 ... a diplomat was housed in this cell ... six Ameri- can and two Australians died here --."’ We plod on. Each of the three floors is the same. , Out now into the blinding sun- witho it shine, past the scaffold and int building ‘‘A’’. And if the § were not enough, this place !S nightmare. Every room here Wa used for interrogation. Each has® iron frame bed, no mattress where people were questioned Torture instruments lay around the air is foul. Someone vomits The group is silent. It seem wrong to be here where peopl died in such agony. We feel liki voyeurs, like we are stepping graves. ‘‘Someone important Wa killed here,’’ the guide’s volt says, ‘‘look, there’s a tent wher guard lay all night in case the p' oner revealled something in sleep ...”” Another room, another bed. This one with a shovel used te batter the victim to death. A Te \ Torture beds and instruments. Each is scribbled instructions for the victims. room is a nightmare. On the wall 4